Scott and I recently visited Asheville, NC, and I swear it has to be the most vegetarian-friendly city I've been to.
The highlight, really, was a restaurant called Plant where everything is vegan. It's casually sophisticated, and the food is outrageously delicious. We tried three of the available entrees: black pepper tofu, fried wild oyster mushrooms, and lemongrass seitan. They were all fantastic. I am salivating just thinking about it, and we were so busy loving the perfect atmosphere, vegan food as it should be, and great company that no photos were taken. Just trust me, and go there!
We also went many times to a super great healthy grocer called Earth Fare. This store has healthy groceries, a selection of wines, yummy vegan chocolate truffles, a prepared food cafe with coffees and smoothies, heavenly-smelling soaps, and decent prices. Recommended!
Other great vegetarian experiences:
Biscuit Head - Yummy fried green tomato on an enormous biscuit with a side of coconut-milk collard greens.
French Broad Chocolate Lounge - Check out the Buddha collection: Vegan ice cream! A huge selection of vegan chocolate truffles and candies!
Early Girl Eatery - Biscuits and gravy (vegetarian and vegan), tempeh, grits, vegan tofu scramble, and more.
On top of there being plenty of delicious vegetarian food, Asheville's just a pretty cool town anyway. Lots of art, lots of local, lots of beautiful scenery.